Every now and then, a restaurant opens that I just know I’m never going to get to go to with Alasdair, and One Fish Street is - even from just the name - absolutely one of them. Luckily, I have many non-vegan friends that can pick up the slack and give Alasdair and evening off, so I head straight from work to meet Ruth there on a Friday night. The menu is exclusively fish and seafood, so it’s very much an effort in variety in the detail. We are thrilled to realise that we are here in time for oyster happy hour, so gladly order a bottle of wine and three oysters apiece - for me, raw with shallot mignonette (my favourite), grilled with potted brown shrimp, and panko breaded with katsu mayo. Snacks include a cuttlefish ragu arancini with a mushroom ketchup, a brown crab custard with some delicious white crab meat, and some whipped cods roe and crisps. The highlight for me is their tins, served with toast and pickles. We opt for the trout fillets in a curry sauce, beautifully cured and the curry sauce setting it off nicely. Scallops with shrimps and brown butter are a hit, and the crispy potato terrine is your standard million layer potatoes you can get everywhere. This is, alas, the kind of restaurant that does not prioritise dessert, so we move on without sampling, but life goes on.