A meal without Alasdair! I was saddened to see that Joomak Banjum, one of my favourite new discoveries last time I was here, had since closed. I was then trilled to learn that the chef behind it had opened Ddobar, serving an incredibly well-priced omasake menu featuring his now supposedly renowned Yubutarts. I can’t say I had heard of this phenomenon, but given how much I loved Joomak Banjum’s combination of Korean dishes seen through a French patisserie lens, I was all ears for this continuation. Admittedly on this random Saturday lunchtime at bang on opening, I was the only one there, but still, a remarkable efficiency of getting 11 courses in me and the bill paid in less than an hour. 11 bite-sized (ish) courses that nonetheless left me full at the end. The first few coures take a bit more variety - a shotglass of cacio e pepe, some beautiful scallops in a brown butter dashi, fluke served with a wasabi foam and apple - but then we hit the tarts. Imagine sushi but instead of the - let’s be honest with ourselves, quite boring at this point - rice, a small choux tart with an appropriate filling. The hiramasa, paired with a yuzu creme; the botan ebi with egg and ikura; the replication of the effect of a classic New York bagel with a slide of salmon on a tart with everything seasoning and horseradish filling. This continues through variations on lobster, tuna, duck pastrami, before we hit the wagyu beef - something I don’t think I’ve properly had before, and oh boy is it good. Served with maitake mushrooms and a truffle royal sauce, this didn’t need a tart; it stood alone, confident in what it was. And then! After ten courses of tiny, perfect bites, they offer me a giant swirl of soft serve earl gray ice cream. It’s delicious, and I do finish it, but it’s too much, and when they ask me if I’d like anymore, even I suprise myself by saying no. A single glass of white wine sees me through it all; I don’t think I’d have had time for a second.