The nostalgia tour begins! I first went in 2019 when the then-new Off Menu podcast had Acaster and Ed Gamble recommend it. A not insignificant reason for our return was to have some oysters, but alas my hopes are dashed when it turns out there’s a six oyster minimum, and I am not a six oyster man. We stick to the mains, then - or, at least, I do. Alasdair suffers his veganism through a plate of broccoli, a plate of fries, and the pained expression of a waiter seeing a larger tip going down the drain (we do our best to make it up). I, on the other hand, treat myself to the duck meatloaf with a cherry glaze, and root vegetables served in a variety of styles, including some delightful crisps. Unspecified on the menu is that it’s served with mashed potato, and our server does not stop me from also ordering the “potato pureé” (further mashed potatoes). Even he, an actual American, describes it as swimming in butter, and my god he’s not wrong. But the hint of horseradish gives it a nice kick, and when in Rome. For dessert, an absolutely devine salted lime pie, a perfect ratio of crust to filling, served with some surprisingly unsweet (it is, after all, America) whipped cream and a breathtaking “passionfruit caramel” that I am savouring until the last bite. It’s good to be back.