The first of the American Michelin stars! Last time I came was a quick drop in for lunch with Alex; this time, a more relaxed, sprawling evening with Alasdair. Unfortunately, I’m not able to go for the tasting menu as it requires the whole table to take part and there are simply not enough vegan options, but no matter. I’m mentally prepared to spend as much money on pasta as the tasting menu would cost, so it all evens out. A cheeky amuse bouche of a miniature brioche bread with an onion pureé and crème fraîche starts us off, before I start doubling down and order the gnoccho fritto, three puffs of fried dough topped with parma ham, mortadella, and guanciale each. All need to be savoured; none are. I’ve already eaten enough for the week, so I only order two of the pastas: the anolini di parma and the cappellaccio ripieno di piselli. The former, a simple but effective stuffed pasta, filled with meat, and a light cheese sauce; the latter, my favourite, fragant with split peas and fresh mint. For dessert, a double caffeine dose of an off-menu espresso martini and their tiramisu, one of the best I’ve ever had, described on their menu as “enough for two, better for one”, and I’ve never been more glad to have a vegan boyfriend. A couple of chocolates for petit fours, and off we stagger to the hotel.