1000 Tiny Birds: 2025 edition

Ragu

Bristol, 2025-09-16

My second day in a row having a catch-up with a friend over dinner in one of the shipping containers, but I’m not complaining. Ragu is the latest restaurant from the folks behind Cor, a (very) local favourite of mine, but skewing more Italian; Raph is the latest friend to be caught up with. It is one of the places that continues to insist on the small plate philosophy (and still, in the year of our lord 2025, feels the need to have its waiters explain this to you in great detail), and Raph is one of the few people I’m willing to indulge in this with, so fine. Highlights include a beautiful focaccia served with a whipped fish roe butter, absolutely divine; the cipollotti onion served in a tender mixture of brown butter and grape must, tantalisingly caramelised whilst still acidic; the highlight of the bigger dishes is the venison, served with gorgonzola (creamier than expected, less tart) and bone marrow butter, richness upon richness that yet doesn’t cloy. The chocolate pudding, half mousse half parfait, is a bit too cherry-laden for my tastes, but the amaretto hint is pleasing. A few glasses of surprisingly approachably priced wine alongside it, and it makes for a lovely evening.