Earlier this year, Mum and Dad discovered a charming little French place in Wheathampstead that they describe as being run by Basil and Sybil Fawlty, but with actually good food. Mum’s been promising to take me for a while, and as I’m stopping back home for a bit, seems only fair to keep an evening free for a nice family meal. I’m thrilled that I did. Three courses, all bangers. I start with salt cod, cooked in a beautiful cream sauce and served with proper shoestring fries and a hard boiled egg. The cod is delectably tender, the curing set off nicely by the richness of the sauce, the texture emboldened by the fries. For the main, of course it’s got to be duck, perfectly cooked, in a peppercorn sauce with classic roast potatoes. It is simple and unshowy and so delicious. A chocolate fondant for dessert, already collapsing on the plate as it’s served, is gorgeous, complemented nicely by a pistachio ice cream. The whole thing is delightful, not least given that we’re the only people in the place. A wonderful little gem to have back home.