The long run of birthday meals in October continues, with Alasdair’s mum and step-dad down for this one after a long day’s birdwatching. Koocha is a vegan mezze place down by the Arches, and my main memory of it is how everything seems to come with pomegranate seeds, so let’s see whether that holds! It kinda does, which is pleasing. The oyster mushroom wings with a saffron aioli and buffalo sauce are one of the best demonstrations that veganism does not need to get in the way of the glory of deep fried texture. Sweetcorn fritters aren’t far away from that title either, served atop a bed of yoghurt dip. I also get some roasted root veg, to make some concession to good health. The highlights for me, though, are the cocktails: the apple crumble cocktail, with sugared rim, is perfection, and the espresso martini in lieu of dessert is just right.