What would a holiday be without brunch? With an afternoon concert in my diary, it’s a perfectly timed meal. We came to this very building on my first visit to the city a few years ago, when it was Coconut and Cream, but that venture has died and has been replaced with Ceintuur Theater, a restaurant whose raison d’etre appears to be rotisserie chicken. And why not! On a suprisingly diverse brunch menu, I have a smoked porchetta focaccia, and am delighted by what I get. Every single element appeals to me - beyond the slow roasted porchetta, we find a pecorino cream (my only complaint is I could have had a bit more of this to bind the thing together), a lovely pickled fennel, and some anchovies. I get varying amounts at different times, all various umami hits in different ways, but there’s one solitary bite in the middle of my second half of the sandwich where all the elements combine at once and it is heavenly. The focaccia itself is excellent, the right amount of oily, the right amount of dental force required to tear it apart. The fries I order on the side are a bit more basic, but the herby mayo does well. A thick, tall slice of apple crumble tart with whipped cream is dense and well-crusted, just to make sure I’m fully sated until dinner this evening. My only other note is that it was very funny seeing George’s ginger tea just being an entire ginger root lopped into pieces and thrown into some hot water. They generously and wisely left the whole bottle of honey on the table to counter the fireiness. Great stuff.