I am never one to miss an opportunity to experience BOX-E in a new way. So to see that they’re doing a collaboration with Big Nath’s BBQ, well now. Luckily it coincides with Alasdair’s week away birdwatching, because there’s no way this is able to be made vegan, so I am able to go guilt-free by myself. On the terrace, I’m treated to an ox tongue skewer straight from the barbecue, before heading indoors to further snacks of crispy pigs ears with apple puree, padron peppers, and a twist on the classic BOX-E bread and whipperd butter with the bread being smoked and the butter being combined with beef fat. It’s less structurally integral, but much richer. I can’t say I prefer it, but I’m not sad for trying it. I throw caution to the wind and have a smoked pineapple pina colada before the wine pairing proper, an excellent twist on the form. The menu is a fascinating twist on some Elliott classics - the Isle of Wight tomatoes served with brisket, left to cool enough that the fat is solidifying and then melting on the tongue, a stunning contrast with the acidity of the tomatoes and pickled onions. The chopped duck eggs and hazelnuts and served with charred asparagus and chicken skin, a textural delight. The main course is ox cheek with peppercorn sauce and crushed potatoes, a succulent, juicy cut of meat set off in various ways with the cabbage slaw and smoked spring onions. Finally - how come I end up where I started? - a smoked pina colada pannacotta, served with dessicated coconut and chunks of pineapple, another exercise in cream and acid. What an absolute delight to have BOX-E in this city.