On the gold-paved streets of London for Stage/Fright, we return to BAO Soho, this time knowing it is sensible to have a reservation in advance. Somehow, though, this doesn’t really improve our experience. We’re still left queueing behind people who are trying to walk in; once we’re in, we’re forgotten about for a good 15 minutes without even water. I know it’s not normally that bad, we’ve been before, but it’s a shame. To some degree, I’m repeating my order from last time, finding a range of the bao buns and some of their other small plates. The food, distinct from the service, is very good, and it does almost make up for it. The baos themselves are, as you’d hope from the name, the highlight - a confit pork and a beef short rib both really hit the spot, the fried chicken a bit let down by the (presumably) less traditional sesame bun but still delicious. The pig blood cake with egg yolk is delightfully difficult to eat as it disintegrates, and the sweet potato fries with plum ketchup are deceptively moreish. Honestly, though, the highlight is the pineapple float, with a salt crystal laden Yakult foam. That’s the thing that stayed with me most from our first visit, and I’m vindicated in having it again.