On our final day, Alasdair and I part for lunch so we can each investigate our own specialties. His, vegan; mine, the Michelin guide. There are no stars available to me today for lunch, so I go for the Bib Gourmand rated Ahimé, sneaking in at the last minute on a fully booked seating. I ask how long it will take to do the tasting menu, and the scoffed response from my Italian waitress suggests that my 2 hour timeframe is perfectly doable. We’re in. The homemade bread is served with a fennel seed butter, which are words I vaguely internalise as “this is a butter that will taste different to normal butter” without fully contemplating the hit of aniseed I was going to get on that first bite. We start properly with a roast cabbage salad with pommegranate seeds and pear, richly dressed whilst retaining its crispness. The second dish is maybe my favourite thing I’ve eaten all holiday, ravioli of wild duck and apricot, served in a tarragon butter. There are four of them, and I savour every single bite of them. Up next, leeks with pine nuts and crispy Tuscan kale, beautifully buttery and densely textured. The main course is duck filet with pumpkin two ways: a puree and roasted. Dessert is nothing I could have expected, gorgeous slices of apple interleaved with puree, served with a chantilly marscapone cream, fluffy enough to support the weight of an apple caramel atop it. The whole thing is perfect, especially with a fascinating macvin du jura dessert wine. What a final meal.